India & South Asia

Meghalaya

The abode of clouds.

The place

Three hill peoples, a culture that passes through the mother, and more rain than almost anywhere on earth. Meghalaya is best known for a few famous views. We travel it through the families who live here.

West to east

Three hills, three worlds.

Forested hills of the Garo Hills, Meghalaya

The Garo Hills

The deepest and least travelled of the three: forest, canyon and cave, a long way from anyone else.

  • NokrekHoolock gibbons calling at dawn, with a ranger who knows the forest by ear.
  • SijuOne of the longest cave systems in India, beside the Simsang river.
  • BalpakramA high plateau of canyons, grassland and wide silence.
  • Dakmanda weavingBright cloth woven on the backstrap loom, in the weaver's own home.
Mist over a gorge in the Khasi Hills, Meghalaya

The Khasi Hills

Rolling uplands, deep gorges and the root bridges, with Shillong at their heart.

  • KongthongThe village where every name is a melody.
  • Rangthylliang and NongbarehRoot bridges away from the crowds, at their families' own pace.
  • TwahlongwarAn abandoned eighteenth-century settlement, opened to visitors in 2026.
  • MawmluhThe cave that gave a whole geological age its name.
A clear river in the Jaintia Hills, Meghalaya

The Jaintia Hills

Clay, stone and clear water in the hills that run east toward the plains.

  • LarnaiBlack pottery shaped by hand, coloured with bark.
  • NartiangA field of standing stones, the largest gathering of them anywhere in the state.
  • UmngotA river so clear the boats seem to float on air.

Moments we love

Moments we love.

Names sung, not spoken

01

Names sung, not spoken

In Kongthong every child is given a melody by their mother. Neighbours call to one another in song.

The grammar of roots

02

The grammar of roots

A bridge grown from living fig roots, visited with the family that has trained it for generations.

Black clay

03

Black clay

At Larnai, women build pots by hand, without a wheel, and pass the craft from mother to daughter.

Eri, the peace silk

04

Eri, the peace silk

In the villages around Umden, silk is spun and dyed by hand from plants gathered nearby.

Wild coffee

05

Wild coffee

A morning in the hills above Shillong, with wild coffee picked, roasted and poured in the same place.

The trader's road

06

The trader's road

Several unhurried days on the old route from Nongstoin to Ranikor, past markets, waterfalls and standing stones.

Six nights, sketched

One full day, one gentle one.

  1. Day 1

    Arrival

    Met at Guwahati, then an unhurried drive up into the hills.

  2. Day 2

    Kongthong

    A day in the village where names are sung.

  3. Day 3

    The roots

    A living bridge, walked at its family's pace.

  4. Day 4

    Clay and stone

    Larnai's potters, then the stones of Nartiang.

  5. Day 5

    Deep time

    Twahlongwar and the cave of Mawmluh.

  6. Day 6

    Silk, then rest

    Eri weavers at Umden, and a long quiet afternoon.

A sketch, not a schedule. Every journey is composed from a blank page.

Clouds rise from the valleys, every morning.

Best time
October to April
Ideal
Six nights or more
Gateway
Guwahati
Travel
Private

In season: the Shillong Literary Festival in November and Winter Tales in December. Pairs well with Arunachal Pradesh, or the tea country of Assam.

Continue

Continue exploring.

Meghalaya begins with a few lines from you.

Begin An Introduction