Signature journey · India
The great music season, from the front row.
The journey
Every December, Chennai becomes one of the largest music festivals on earth. We take you inside it, and then south along the Cauvery, where the music, the bronze and the silk were born.
Concerts at dusk in the old sabhas, seated among families who have come for forty years. Afterwards, dinner with the musicians.
At dawn, a veena player warms up for two hours before breakfast. You listen from the doorway, the way her students do.
“This is how the music is kept. By doing it every day. By not stopping.”
The thousand-year-old monuments of Thanjavur and Darasuram, and the foundries where bronze is still cast by the lost-wax method.
Kanchipuram looms, banana-leaf lunches, and the slow, generous hospitality of the delta.
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Tamil Nadu begins with a few lines from you.
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